Speechless in Fooman

Koloocheh shop in Fooman. Photo by Mr. Zeighami. I'm so embarrassed I can't remember where I got this picture. I promise to look for the source and fix this oversight soon. In the meantime, you should know that Koloocheh Tafazzoli is the best in Fooman. I used to stop by and buy them fresh and piping hot. Fooman is a lovely little town in Gilan with breathtaking nature surrounding it.

On a Sizdah-Be-Dar several years ago, I went for a day trip to Gilan's Fooman. All over the Fooman marketplace, there were piles of lettuce, vinegar, and sekanjebin (sweet mint syrup, an accompaniment to raw lettuce), presented to the public. I entered a handicrafts shop. I looked around. There were many items from Isfahan and Shiraz and Zanjan on display, but I couldn't identify any authentic Gilani or Foomani items. I asked the gentleman store owner whether there were any Fooman handicrafts available. He pointed behind him to row after row of colorful handmade lofah's (leef) on display. He said in his sweet Gilak accent: "Dokhtara ina ro dorost mikonan (The girls make these.)." I asked him to show me which ones his daughters, the girls, had made. He looked at me confused. He said: "My daughters?" I said: "Yes, you said 'the girls' made these." He said: "I said 'the girls' made these; I didn't say my daughters made these. My daughters are studying medicine and political science in Germany and US." I was so embarrassed. I bought two blue lofah's and left quietly. I still have them. I miss Fooman today.

A Wonder Atop A Mountain

These are pictures of Ghaleh Roodkhan in Fooman mountains in Gilan. This fort is the biggest ancient brick and stone castle in Iran, and is located 25 km southwest of the city of Fooman. It is comprised of an administrative and a military structure, which housed a garrison. People used to live in the military section, equipped with utility services such as a water reservoir (Ab Anbar) which has stayed intact in over 800 years. It is believed to have been built during the Mogul rule over Iran in Saljuq era (1040-1220). Built on two tips of a mountain, it has an area of five hectares. After crossing a mountainous winding route and passing a dense and very beautiful forrest, the first thing the traveler discovers is the castle's grand entrance gate.

In my many trips to Gilan, I never knew this architectural marvel existed. I have seen pictures of it and recently, our friend Alef Shin wrote about it to me in a letter. It is going on my list of things to see before I live a long life!

Here's where the photos and some of the text came from:

First picture is by a fabulous photographer, named Dr. Bavand Bikdeli. Check his photoblog. He is amazing.

Second picture and some of the text is by Atoussa Taghavi.

Third picture is by Maysam Sedaghat.

Last picture has been taken by Alef Shin last Fall on a rainy day.